Tashkent

• Our entry into Uzbekistan was by direct flight from Bishkek to Tashkent, the country’s capital. Five days later, we made our exit by the same route. With the help of the map below, it is easy to spot the three Uzbek cities we visited, Tashkent, Samarkand and Bukhara, all major stopping points on the ancient Silk Road:
  

  

  We traveled by train from Tashkent to Samarkand and, later, from Samarkand to Bukhara, but we returned to Tashkent by domestic flight. For simplicity, photos from our first and last days, when we were in Tashkent, are grouped in this one section.
  
  Sprawling Tashkent is the most cosmopolitan and modern city in Uzbekistan. Alas, there is a sad reason for its modernity. A strong earthquake in 1966 damaged much of the historic part of Tashkent. It was rebuilt as a model Soviet city of wide streets planted with shade trees, parks, immense plazas for parades, fountains, monuments, and acres of apartment blocks. By 1991, when the Soviet Union collapsed, Tashkent was the fourth-largest city in the USSR and a learning center in the fields of science and engineering. However, because of the earthquake, the redevelopment that followed it and post-1991 construction, there are few structural remains of Tashkent’s ancient history. Little can be found that marks the city as a trading point on the historic Silk Road.
  
  One city spectacle we made no attempt to see, because of photo restrictions and time constraints, was the Tashkent Metro. From what we’ve read, the Metro ought to be touted as a prime tourist attraction, so beautifully decorated is it. However, Uzbek law forbids taking pictures inside the Metro or in any of the stations as they are considered military installations. You’ll have to search on the Internet for photos --- and they are numerous. One such example is provided below --- though you may be arrested for viewing it:
  

  

  ... just kidding, ... I think.
  
  The weather was damp and dreary upon our noon arrival in Tashkent. Nevertheless, having joined our guide and driver, we were soon whizzing across the city, bound for our first stop, the U.S. Embassy. There, Jennifer met her counterparts in person for the first time, we met and thanked the man who invited us to Uzbekistan (every visitor is required to have someone INVITE them to the country), and we enjoyed lunch in a most attractive environment.
  
  After that, it was time for sight-seeing in “Old Tashkent,” as it is called. What we visited was a newly-remodeled complex known as the Khast Imam Square. It consists of many buildings, including mosques, madrassas, mausoleums and a library of ancient Muslim relics. This is a major religious center. Age-old crafts are practiced here and the end results are on display and for sale.
  
  As we cannot with confidence identify each building, the photos are merely presented chronologically. We entered the complex between these 150 ft tall minarets:
  

  

  
  

  

  
  

  

  
  

  

  
  

  

  
  

  

  
  Upon exiting the Square, we found, with remarkable ease, where the driver had parked our vehicle:
  

  

  
  Soon enough, he made his appearance and off we went again. This time, the ride was short as we disembarked within walking distance of Chorsu Bazaar, Tashkent’s most famous farmer’s market. On the edge of “Old Tashkent,” it is vast, as evidenced by this Internet aerial photo:
  

  

  We explored only a fraction of it, missing altogether areas where livestock and durable goods of all kinds are sold. Had we more time, it would have been entertaining to spend a half day here, perhaps even venturing into the nearby metro station. Our short visit was fascinating, nonetheless, and allowed us to acquire a few bargains:
  

  

  
  

  

  
  With the drizzly afternoon waning fast, we left Chorsu for a new rendezvous with our driver. A burst of sunlight interrupted our walk and made us pause in admiration:
  

  

  
  An hour later, we were checked into our accommodations at the Uzbekistan Hotel --- THAT despite our reservations being misplaced and everyone’s attention being distracted by a raucous, jam-packed wedding reception. Soon, we had time to exchange some money at the hotel’s cashier. Incredibly, investing only $50 U.S., we were “rolling in dough”:
  

  

  Well, not really. The largest denomination Uzbek bill is a 1000 Som note, currently worth less than 50 U.S. cents. In Uzbekistan, you invariably carry a hefty wad of 1000 Som notes around, organized in sets of 10. (Every tenth note is folded to enclose the previous nine.) Pity the poor Uzbeks --- at least, any who try to save for a rainy day with Soms. (I hope there aren’t any.) For years, the value of the Uzbek Som has been unwaiveringly downward against the world’s currencies.
  
  On our last day in Uzbekistan, we had more touring opportunities before our 4 pm departure to Bishkek. We had driven past an eye-catching Russian Orthodox Church on our first day in Tashkent and decided to give it a closer look:
  

  

  The church buildings turned out to be a challenge to photograph, spread out as they were, with trees in the way and even the sun at an unhelpful angle. Could it be I need a better camera or just better skills?
  
  The main church was beautiful and quite substantial. We headed for its interior:
  

  

  

  An afternoon service was still underway; so, we did not stay long:
  

  

  Outside, we were mesmerized by the church bells overhead, which were played for a long time.
  
  Still searching for a better shot of the church, I had to circle around to its sunlit backside to find it:
  

  

  It had been there all the time!
  
  For our final Tashkent experience, our driver dropped us off about a mile from our hotel. We strolled a pleasant stretch of parkway, dotted with monuments, fountains and flowers, to reach our hotel and reclaim our luggage.
  
  The Independence and Humanitarianism Monument was built shortly after Uzbek independence in 1991. It features a globe with larger-than-life Uzbekistan joining the world. No, the statues are not of Mary and Jesus --- if that is what you thought. In this predominantly Muslim country, they are the Happy Mother, admiring her son --- symbols of the country’s future:
  

  

  This is one well-kept park:
  

  

  Sorry, though, no picnicing on the grass! In fact, don’t even think of walking on it!
  
  A short distance away is the Independence Arch (actually, the Ezgulik Arch):
  

  

  This “arch of good and noble aspirations” is decorated with flying storks and surrounded by fountains:
  

  

  

  
  Closing in on our hotel, we crossed a square named after Amir Temur:
  

  

  We shall encounter this notorious despot again in Samarkand, his final resting place.
  
  Just across the street from our hotel is the Congress Center, representative of the many handsome buildings in Tashkent:
  

  

  Recently-built, it is designed to hold large international forums and cultural events. It is a VERY attractive structure.