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From Maastricht, our ship traveled primarily on the 81 mile long Albert Canal, completed in 1939. Though of not much scenic interest, this canal is of immense economic importance to Belgium. By means of it and the Rhine-Main-Danube Canal finished in 1992, a barge can now travel from Antwerp all the way across Europe to the Black Sea!
Antwerp is the second largest city in Belgium and has the second largest harbor in Europe (after Rotterdam). It is a world center for diamonds and the fashion capital of Belgium. All this despite the heavy damage it sustained in WWI and then, again, in WWII.
After a get-acquainted coach tour of the city, we continued with our guide on foot. First stop was the home and studio of the prolific artist, Peter Paul Rubens (1577–1640):
This museum houses a collection of paintings by Rubens himself and by some of his contemporaries. Rubens’ work shop, private quarters and a reconstructed garden are open to visitors. Do not let our well-timed photo deceive you. This museum is so popular that only slow progress through it is possible. It was never designed to accommodate the crowds it now attracts.
We were impressed to learn that Rubens was not only a master of a painter but also an exceptional businessman. Seemingly, those two characteristics seldom go together.
On our way to the heart of the old city, we couldn’t help notice many corner shrines to Mary. These two, in particular, were beautifully maintained:
Only a short walk from the Rubens Museum is the magnificent Cathedral of Notre Dame with its 400 foot spire, completed about 1481:
We are continually amazed to see other buildings constructed right up to the walls of such wonderful old churches. Perhaps it is only a photographer’s wish for a less cluttered photo, but we can’t help wonder if these buildings are so close because of the scarcity of real estate in the old town, or a bias against church property, or a profit making venture by the church itself, or some other reason. It is easy to imagine the loss of beauty the likes of Paris’ Cathedral of Notre Dame would suffer if a bunch of little buildings were crunched up against its flanks like this.
On a sweeter note, our guided tour included a chocolate factory inspection (with delicious souvenirs) and a fine lunch near the Cathedral. Given an afternoon at leisure, we strolled up Meir Street, very wide and pedestrianized, full of bustling people and restaurants with cuisine from all over the world:
Always on the lookout for the unexpected and unusual, we were surprised by this rooftop decoration near the Central RR Station:
Well, how often does one see a statue of a man riding a camel? in Antwerp? .... probably, only at the entrance to the city zoo.
Making our way to the Town Square (Grote Markt), we saw the Cathedral from the opposite side, towering over the square and its Brabo Fountain:
Moving forward a bit and turning to the right places the viewer face-to-face with the Town Hall (Stadhuis, 1564):
To the right of the Town Hall are the so-called houses of the Guilds:
Without doubt, this is an impressive town square.
Returning to our ship, moored in the River Scheldt, we passed Steen Castle (literally, “Stone Castle”):
Steen is one of the oldest fortresses in Europe but it has been renovated numerous times. The remodeling of the 16th century is apparent from the color of the new stonework above the old. The large statue in front of the castle is that of a Flemish folk tale figure, known for his ability to change shape from a small child to a towering giant. He’s supposed to be a trickster and a troublemaker, though, so you might not like to meet him.
A farewell reception and Captain’s dinner marked our last evening on board this elegant ship --- one last chance to dance and then we bid adieu to our talented and friendly piano player, Karol. On the following day, we would be off by coach, first to Bruges and, later in the day, to Brussels. The ship would gain a new set of guests that afternoon and head back to Amsterdam, doing “our trip” in reverse.