Regensburg

• The next morning we were on the Danube --- at its northernmost bend --- docked in Regensburg and primed for a walking tour. UNESCO lists the medieval city center of Regensburg as a World Heritage Site. With its more than 2000 years of history, that is no surprise. Though preceded by stone-age settlements, Regensburg was effectively founded when the Romans constructed a fortress here in 179 AD. Later in our walk, we would examine part of the fortress walls that still remain.
  
  Fortunately, Regensburg itself suffered little damage in WWII and its slow economic recovery meant that money for modernization was not available until the 1960s. By then, the prevailing mindset had turned against modernization in favor of preserving the city’s heritage.
  
  On foot, we approached the town from the northern end of its ancient stone bridge.
  

  

  Unlike our view of it, the Internet photo above shows the old Stone Bridge without scaffolding. (During our visit, we had to use a temporary pedestrian bridge on the far side.) There is no older vaulted stone bridge in Germany because this one was completed in 1146 AD.
  
  Before crossing, we admired fall colors at their peak --- most welcome on a rather dull morning:
  

  

  
  Across the bridge and right next door is the world’s oldest fast food restaurant, this historic sausage kitchen:
  

  

  It once catered to workers who built the neighboring Stone Bridge. To this day, you can still purchase sausages here in complements of 6, 8 or 10, complete with sauerkraut and mustard. Any takers?
  
  As close to the water as it is, the 900 year old building has been flooded many times over the centuries. The last severe flood was in June 2013, during which structures close to the waterfront suffered damage. Even during our visit --- 16 months later --- we saw evidence of ongoing repairs due to that flood.
  
  Evidence of another sort was nearby: the Romans were here, too!

  

  Remains of the fortress walls erected in 179 AD have been incorporated into a more modern building. The sketch below describes the appearance of this portal to the Roman fortress:
  

  

  
  A challenge to photograph, massive St. Peter’s Cathedral in the old town has a Bavarian Gothic style. Its completion was a long time coming, from 1260 until 1520:
  

  

  Although restored in the 2000s, parts of it are usually under wraps or scaffolding for maintenance reasons.
  
  On nearby streets, we were amused by the fanciful rooftop decorations:
  

  

  The opposite side of this street is punctuated by an exceptionally tall tower, erected in the middle ages by a wealthy family:
  

  

  Sometimes, towers such as this were built for defensive purposes, but more often simply to impress the neighbors. It was basically a competition to see who would be able to put up the highest tower in the city. Nowadays, we call creations of this sort “McMansions,” don’t we? I think not much has changed.
  
  Around the corner is the old town hall ...
  

  

  ... and above its main entrance, guards are still on duty to keep out the riffraff. The guy with the stone looks like he means business:
  

  

  No doubt, you guessed the netting is not to keep THEM in but birds out.
  
  Leaving the tour, Jan and I managed to reach the former Benedictine Abbey of St. Emmeram:
  

  

  In 1733, the abbey’s church was ornately refurbished in Baroque style, the first we had encountered on this trip:
  

  

  

  The original abbey was founded in 739 at the grave of a Bishop Emmeram. However, in 1812 the monastery buildings were transformed into royal residences and called “the St. Emmeram Palace.” The abbey church evolved into a parish church and was designated a basilica in 1964.
  
  Running out of time to explore, we headed back to St. Peter’s to catch our bus. As we left, the juxtaposition of fall colors on a Crucifixion scene made a vivid impression:
  

  

  
  Hurrying along, all we had to do to find our way was look up:

  

  

  
  Arriving a few minutes early, we paused at “Der Hutmacher,” which faces St. Peter’s Square:
  

  

  This is the home of a world-renowned maker of hats and other head coverings for men and women. Johnny Depp’s flamboyant hat for the movie “Alice in Wonderland” was created here.
  
  Just in time for lunch, the Viking coach had us back at the Freya, moored placidly on the Danube:
  

  

  
  This was to be a busy day for us --- we had chosen to take an optional afternoon tour to Weltenburg Abbey.