Montserrat

• Montserrat is a beautiful Benedictine monastery 40 miles to the northwest of Barcelona. Hermit monks lived here in huts as early as 900 AD. The monastery had its beginnings in 1025 and has become one of the most important pilgrimage sights in Spain. It is, certainly, the most important in Catalunya. Thousands travel to Montserrat each year to see and touch the statue of La Moreneta (The Black Virgin).
  
  The statue and the monastery have survived many disasters: the destruction of monastery buildings by Napoleon’s forces in 1811, the dissolution of monasteries and convents by Spanish rulers in the 1830s and Franco’s suppression of everything Catalonian in the 20th century --- not to mention forest fires and storms. Perhaps, that helps explain why Catalonians identify so closely with Montserrat for they are survivors, too.
  
  Besides its religious and cultural importance, Montserrat has a spectacular mountain setting. For those who enjoy walking, there are a number of different trails available from the top of the funicular with expansive views of the surrounding countryside.
  
  With only a few days left in Spain, we had little choice for weather. Our Tuesday travel day was dry but with a heavy overcast --- not the best for stunning photos. It was also very chilly. Wisely, we made no picnic plans; the Montserrat cafeteria was splendidly warm and cozy for all our needs and not a bit crowded.
  
  For public transport to Montserrat, there is a choice between bus and train. We chose the FGC train because it offered frequent departure times from Plaça de Espanya. The ride to the valley below Monserrat takes one hour. From there, a rack railway or an aerial cable car transports passengers to the top in an additional 20 minutes.
  
  From the valley floor, we rode up to Montserrat on the rack railway, aboard which the first five photos below were taken:
  

  

  

  

  

  

  
  For a first-time visit, it is hard to be prepared for that initial sight:
  

  

  It amazed us how the monastery is propped up and wedged right into these jagged peaks. Both pictures, above and below, were taken directly toward the basilica, the entrance of which is on the opposite end.
  

  

  
  The main plaza in front of the basilica entrance is easily identified below ...
  

  

  ... and, soon, we were standing on it:
  

  

  There are five arched passageways leading into the basilica, only three of which are visible in this photo.
  
  Moving closer to the basilica, we have the basilica entrance on the right and a cloister straight ahead. To our left is a public library, a reading room and the monastery’s private entrance:
  

  

  Farther to the left is a modern hotel --- for customers who are comfortable with the breathtaking backdrop:
  

  

  
  Proceeding through an arched passageway, we enter an atrium with the church entrance now straight ahead:
  

  

  
  The subdued lighting inside and the heavy overcast skies led to poor photos. Consequently, the next three were supplied by Internet sources:
  

  

  The location of the statue so many people come to see is marked on this photo. When we first entered the church, we had no idea it was there. Since the queue for seeing it was off to the right, we concluded the statue was in a chapel on that side of the church. Little did we realize then that pilgrims climb several flights of stairs to reach the statue high over the altar.
  
  In this photo, two people are standing in front of the statue, facing it:
  

  

  (While in the church, we do not recall being able to see anyone moving by above the altar. I suspect the opening may be temporarily reduced in size when the La Moreneta statue is open to visitors. That would eliminate what would otherwise be a huge distraction in the church.)
  
  La Moreneta is a small wood statue of Mary (and Jesus) found in a cave nearby in the 12th century. She is the patroness of Catalunya and the top attraction at Montserrat. While “Moreneta” is translated as “black” in English, we are told that in Spanish it means “tanned”:
  

  

  The varnish on the statue has oxidized and because of the effects of candle and lamp smoke, the appearance is now black. The Virgin has a crown of diadems and in her hand a ball, representing the entire cosmos. Also wearing a crown, Jesus sits on her lap with His right hand raised in blessing, while His left is holding a pine cone.
  
  The statues are enclosed in a glass or plastic case with a small opening for part of the orb and Mary’s right hand. The opening allows pilgrims to touch Mary’s orb as they stand in front. After they visit, their exit along the outside of the church is illuminated by hundreds of colorful votive candles:
  

  

  
  Leaving the basilica, our view of the jagged Monserrat peaks is perfectly framed by an archway:
  

  

  
  Next on our agenda was the Sant Joan Funicular and a downhill walk back to the monastery:
  

  

  
  Despite the steep incline, the ride was smooth and, before long, we were at the top. No surprise, the machinery was Swiss made:
  

  

  For some reason, we took no photo from the summit --- perhaps, because we were chatting with some acquaintances or focused on choosing the desired route down. There IS a fine view that we missed, according to this Internet photo:
  

  

  
  The walk back to the monastery took us about 45 minutes. Thankfully, the mostly-rocky road we descended was paved in sections that were unusually steep. The views were out of this world:
  

  

  

  How some of those boulders keep from falling, is, indeed, a puzzlement.
  

  

  
  Almost back at the monastery, our day was brightened by this autumn scene just off the trail. It is a tribute to Pablo Casals, the famed cellist and conductor, reminding us that, he, too, was a proud native of Catalunya. Such spirit and independence these Catalonians possess! You cannot help but be impressed by their cultural heritage and admire them for nurturing it.