Bishkek city
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Due to a 3 am arrival at the airport, we were slow at making Bishkek’s acquaintance. Eventually recovering, we set out for Ala-Too Square, not far from our accommodations. Patty was pleased as punch to finally be here:
Ala-Too is the central square in this capital city, serving as a venue for state events and celebrations, not to mention protests. This view looks across a main artery toward the National Historical Museum, formerly bearing Lenins name:
The horseman is Manas, who, according to legend, brought various Kyrgyz tribes together in times of trouble. However, from 1984 when Ala-Too was constructed until 2003, this same pedestal held a statue of Lenin. With his demotion, Lenin now delivers his pitch behind the museum.
At the base of the national flag stand two honor guards, protected from extreme weather by air conditioned cubicles:
Within a block or two of this square are the most important government buildings and universities, the President’s office included:
From the front, it is not hard to see why it is called the “White House”:
At night, the square is almost magical, a favorite place for apartment-dwelling residents to stroll on warm summer evenings:
Every weekend, musical accompaniment blares from loudspeakers and automobile traffic is restricted.
In time, we explored a large part of the central area on foot. We found many monuments, shady pathways (such as below) and several unusual buildings.
Naturally, while walking, it is always wise to watch what is underfoot. Bishkek has its share of downright-dangerous sidewalks but it also has some that are truly magnificent:
We observed later that more of these beautiful tiles are being installed ...
... although not at breakneck speed.
In a more secluded corner of Ala-Too Square is the Peoples’ Friendship Monument ...
... and a short walk away are the dramatic Martyrs of the Revolution Monument, below, ...
... and the massive Victory Monument:
Suggestive of a yurt’s silhouette, this monument recalls the sacrifices made for victory over the Nazis in WWII.
Near the Sports Palace is a statue of Kyrgyz strongman, Kojomkul (1889-1955), a legendary wrestler weighing 360 lbs at his peak:
A statue of Mikhail Frunze, hero of the Bolshevik revolution, is upstaged by a little tyke --- at least, in her mother’s eyes:
For a time, Bishkek’s name was changed to Frunze to honor this Bolshevik. The city airport still carries airport code FRU, an abbreviation for his name.
And, finally, behind the Historical Museum, viewed from his sunny side, is the oversized statue of Vladimir Lenin:
We suspect someone with a sense of humor chose this spot because directly in line with Lenin’s gesture is ...
... the American University of Central Asia.
A few doors down “our” street is this novel building, which brings the forest right to town:
I guess you could call it a “tree house.” It is clearly not starting a trend, though, as we saw none other like it.
Another eye-catching building close by is the Bishkek Circus building near Victory Monument:
Not a bad seat in the place, it is said --- nice to know when the circus comes to town.
By car, we stopped for a closer look at the citys principal mosque, the only one allowed open in Soviet times ...
... and the main Russian Orthodox church, of which there are only a few:
Bishkek is on an important rail line; so, we checked out the train switching yard:
Based on rust and weeds, train cars on the far left and right seemed to have been stationary for decades.
Moving through town, this truckload of corn for animals reminds us that this is an agricultural region:
Louay took us into the hills south of town on roads that required high clearance and 4WD. This first view, toward the west, overlooks a typical cemetery:
High peaks lie to the south of Bishkek, offering a spectacular backdrop to the city on a clear day. On this hazy day, looking north, no mountains are in sight:
... and, one last look from the hills, a closer view of suburban housing: