Herm

• It is just a 20 minute ferry ride from Guernsey to Herm Island. No wonder, with its abundance of fine beaches, that Herm is a favorite daytrip for Guernsey residents.
  
  Fortunately, the day we picked to sail was as calm and sunny as we had hoped. Leaving the harbor at St. Peter Port, we were dwarfed by some fairly massive vessels, such as this Condor Rapide catamaran:
  

  

  As the city receded from view ...
  

  

  our destination came into focus:
  

  

  Herm’s most popular beaches extend considerably to the left off the photo.
  
  Disembarking on Herm felt like stepping back in time:
  

  

  Actually, a group of dancers in period costumes were spending the day on Herm. They were scheduled to give a demonstration of traditional Guernsey folk dancing at the local school where eight children are enrolled.
  
  Our plan for Herm was to hike its perimeter as it measures only about 1.5 x 0.5 miles. One loop of its perimeter can be completed in two hours, they say. However, we found that the wind and elevation changes make that difficult; pausing to admire the panoramic views makes it IMPOSSIBLE!
  
  No cars are allowed on Herm; in fact, bicycles are also banned for lack of suitable paths and for safety reasons. The only vehicles are tractors, used for farming and transporting visitors’ luggage, and an electric “golf cart” used to transport elderly folks between the ferry and their accommodations. ... Well, in point of fact, we did spot one other motorized vehicle on land but it was just a “fish out of water”:
  

  

  
  Setting off on our ramble, we passed the White House Hotel on our left,
  

  

  and soon had an eyeful of Jethou, the private island just offshore:

  

  A few steps further, this is the scene looking toward St. Peter Port:
  

  

  Keeping up with Patty while taking that “perfect photo” isn’t always easy:
  

  

  Almost everywhere on our hike, bird songs, the sound of the wind, and plenty of peace and quiet were the norm:
  

  

  Here and there, secluded beaches were waiting to be discovered:
  

  

  At this one, however, a multitude of beach-goers had documented their presence very well:
  

  

  The white sands of Herm’s beaches stretch into the distance, around the corner and way down the other side:
  

  

  That was more beach than we wanted to walk. As a shortcut, we left the coast and moved inland to reach the more inhabited part of the island:
  

  

  

  At last count, the permanent population was well under 100. There is a hotel, shop, tavern, restaurant, self-catering units and a number of private homes. One such charming residence is tucked away cozily below:
  

  

  After relaxing in the tavern and enjoying the refreshments, we checked out the harbor. It did not look good:
  

  

  Fortunately, it had been made abundantly clear that our departure at low tide would take place elsewhere. Here it is, about a ten minute walk away, called the Rosaire Steps; our ferry is just arriving:
  

  

  Departing at 5 pm, this was our last nostalgic look at the island:
  

  

  
  Interestingly enough, the experience of Herm during the German occupation of WWII was very different from that of Guernsey. Herm was of no strategic importance to the Germans: there were no paved roads, no airport and little in the way of infrastructure; only a handful of islanders were living there when the Nazis arrived. As a result, Herm was spared the buildup of fortifications, observation towers, anti-tank walls and the presence of large numbers of German occupiers that Guernsey endured. German officers did come over to relax on Herm’s sandy beaches or to hunt rabbits; otherwise, the main use of the island to the Germans was to practice amphibious landings there in preparation for their planned invasion of Britain.