Getting to Segou
November 30 - December 1, 2010

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Tourist travel in Mali is difficult. It is also expensive. Instead of making hotel and transport reservations by internet and paying with a credit card, in Mali such arrangements are normally made by phone and paid for in cash upfront. With only a few days to make preparations for independent travel, we were fortunate that Jennifer could make the reservations for us and perform the cash transaction.

We did consider a journey to Timbuktu. However, it would have entailed four flight legs and an overnight stay. Flights are not daily and a canceled return flight would have been very unwelcome. For us, the cost, discomforts and risks associated with reaching it easily outweighed the “reward”. Instead, we opted for a drive to Segou with a one night stayover. A driver and a guide, as well as an “air-conditioned” vehicle, were provided by the travel agency.

The region of Segou is considered to be a gentle introduction to the bush country outside the sprawling capital. The population of Segou city itself is estimated at 100,000. Bamako and Segou are both on the Niger. However, on a drive from one to the other, the river is almost entirely out of sight. Few shade trees are close to the road and the terrain is flat. Even though the road is paved, it is narrow with bumpy dropoffs to the shoulder and it carries wide vehicles, sometimes traveling slowly.

“Are gas stations, rest rooms and food available on the drive?” you may ask. Well, yes and no. The “gas stations” consist of vendors at roadside who sell petrol in one-liter increments, each “pre-packaged” in a glass jar. Native-style food is plentiful at roadside huts. It would be helpful to be either culinarily adventuresome, downright famished, speak French or Bambara, or be willing to let your guide be your guide. As for restrooms, the answer is negative. In any case, the drive takes only about 3 1/2 hours unless lengthy stops are made.

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